Allspice

Pimenta dioica (Myrtaceae)

This spice is commonly mistakenly confused with black peppercorns, and possibly the confusion arose when Christopher Columbus showed these to the natives of the Caribbean islands, believing them to be the same as the Caribbean allspice found locally.  However, Allspice is a spice in its own right.

Its history dates back a long way – long before the Spanish arrived in the West Indies, the Mayan Indians were known to have used the spice to embalm their dead. 

In the 17^th century, long-distance sailors appreciated the preservative properties of Allspice berries when they used them as an aid to keeping fish and meat fit for consumption on long voyages.  Today the Scandinavians still commonly use Allspice in the fishing industry. 

It was not only the berries which were sought after, and in the 19^th century there was a market for walking sticks and umbrellas produced from young saplings of the allspice tree.  In order to protect the species, legislation was introduced to control the felling of allspice saplings, which served to save this spice from becoming extremely rare, if not extinct.

Found naturally in the West Indes, central and Southern America, this tree is a member of the Myrtle family.  Introduced to Ceylon and Singapore in the 19^th century, the saplings struggled and did not grow well, and so the attempted cultivation stopped.  Healthy trees will grow to about 9–12 metres (30-40 feet) in height, although in the rain forests of South America, the growth rate is considerably higher, and the trees can double in size. 

The aroma given off by these trees makes them ideal for formal planting, and avenues of these trees are affectionately known as “pimento walks”.  The heady perfume comes from all parts of the tree, from the bark through to the leaves, berries and flowers.

Harvest takes place between July and September each year, approximately 3–4 months after flowering, when the still green but fully developed berries are picked.  Drying takes place in the sun, where the colour gradually changes through to purple and eventually brown.  The first harvest is taken when the trees are about 5–6 years old, but the trees are not fully productive until they reach about 15 years.  The lifespan of a healthy tree can be as long as 100 years, making them a profitable investment.  The main producer of allspice is Jamaica, whose crops are considered as premium, and who produce approximately two thirds of the world supply, and export is principally to Germany, the USA and the UK. 

Allspice is an apt name – aromas of cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon through to peppercorns have been suggested, and when crushed, Allspice has an intense flavour.  For preference, it is better to buy the whole spice and grind it yourself, as the ground spice loses its strength quite quickly.   The berries should have a rough outer husk, which is where most of the flavour comes from, because they have tiny oil-glands in them.  On the inside are two small seeds, shaped like kidneys.

If you have ever been to Jamaica, you might have tried the local alcoholic drink “Jamaica Dram” – this is made from Allspice and Rum.  Allspice is also used in the production of Benedictine and Chartreuse.   Mulled wine can also be made using whole Allspice berries as flavouring.

In European cookery, Allspice is often used in sweet recipes, and particularly as an ingredient in festive delicacies such as Christmas Pudding.  It is also used ground in chutneys, preserves and pickles.  Scandinavia are common users of the distinctive flavour of Allspice, traditionally in herring dishes.